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Taraka Madalum


I asked what "Taraka Madalum" meant. I imagined exotic lands with lush greens, smoky sunsets with the smell of spices wafting through from a coal stove in the dirty kitchen of a nearby house. "It's a place in Lanao", he said. I guess my imagination wasn't too far off.

I've been to Taraka Madalum many times before. On days when we're looking for something different. Times when we've grown a little tired of the usual choices. More so, on days when we're looking to gorge ourselves without draining our pockets.

This is not that "place in Lanao" I'm talking about, but a busy little stall inside the public market. For the hundreds of people working around the area, it's where they can get a fast and cheap meal. For most people not familiar with the fare, it's a whole different world. But, for me, who has been lucky enough to have been introduced to this section of Cogon Market last year, it's comfort and excitement, honest and just simply good food.

The Cogon Public Market, for anyone who has never been inside, is certainly not very appealing, nor appetizing, for this matter. One might say that clean and orderly, are two words that would not be used to describe it. But, surprisingly, holds so many culinary treasures. Some of you might have heard of the steaming Sikwate skillfully served in stainless steel cups. More of you could have gone to Aling Violy's just before the break of dawn, for a plate of Humba, after a night of boozing. If you have, you might have seen another section in the food stall area that, on those off times, would seem quiet, if not unremarkable. This area is where our Muslim brothers and sisters serve food that would seem foreign to the usual locals, not minding the aroma of stewed pork just across. Where hundreds of years of tradition is served in humble plastic plates. Where evidence of our clear cultural ties with other Malay countries can be seen in almost each dish. Where, even in the simplest form, a traditional brass wash basin keeps their culture of hand-washing alive.

This piece is about food, but I'm not going to give a gastronomic analysis of what they serve in Taraka Madalum. It's enough for me to say that it's really good. This piece, for the few of you reading this, is meant to remind you that there is no barrier between where the Humba is served and where the "Papar" is abundant. This is meant to encourage you to go beyond the bounds of the Sikwate area and cross through that broken escalator. Experience and taste another part that is still Filipino and yet almost unknown to most who proclaim to be. In the "Facebook Generation", restaurant reviews abound, and a difference of a few stars could mean disaster for an establishment. These stalls, don't have facebook pages or any advertising for that matter, and they probably don't even need this random recommendation. Why would they? They've been there longer than most restaurants around the city and will most likely stay in business long after some have gone. I just can't believe how the kind of food served there, isn't getting the recognition it deserves. Let it start

with this one review... Five Stars.


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